Naturally Green Farm & Flowers

Naturally Green Farm & Flowers Pure, pesticide-free produce from a Corryton farm, fostering food transparency & community bonds.

09/10/2026

I need some input on this one.

We’re moving our winter indoor growing operation out of a 10×10 space and into this trailer.

The side walls are already insulated, I already have spray foam for the ceiling, I’m removing the rack, and I’m planning to skirt the outside.

The biggest thing I’m thinking about now is humidity.

We’ll be watering in here, there will be a lot of plants, and this is going to be a fairly permanent setup for a while.

I’m trying to do it on a very low budget, but I also don’t want to build something cheap now and create a moisture problem I regret later.

So if you’ve built a grow room, greenhouse, trailer conversion, mushroom room, or any other high-humidity space:

What materials held up well?

What would you absolutely avoid?

And if you had to build this thing on a tight budget, what would you prioritize first?

I’ve got the basic plan.

Now I’m looking for the smartest low-cost way to finish the interior.

09/10/2026

You can overfertilize your garden with compost.

Yes even homemade compost.

That does not mean compost is bad.

Compost can add organic matter, improve soil structure, and help soil hold water.

But compost also brings nutrients with it.

If you keep making heavy applications especially with manure-based compost you can build up more phosphorus than your crops actually need.

Some compost can also contribute enough soluble salts to create plant stress when it’s overapplied.

And here’s the part that matters:

Your garden can need more nitrogen without needing more phosphorus.

So if something looks hungry and you automatically reach for the same amendment every time, you may be adding more of something that’s already abundant.

Before another heavy application:

* get a soil test
* look at recommendations for what you’re growing
* tell the lab what you’ve been adding
* ask whether soluble salts should be checked
* if you’re buying bulk compost, ask for an analysis

I’m not telling you to stop building your soil.

I’m telling you to check what it needs instead of automatically giving it another wheelbarrow.

SoilTest VegetableGardening RegenerativeGardening MarketGardening FarmEducation

09/10/2026

I’m getting 4–6 cuts from a planting of dill in cooler weather, and the biggest thing is what I leave behind when I harvest.

I’m growing dill for the soft, feathery foliage the fronds.

Once the plants are established, I’m clipping about 2–3 inches of leafy growth while leaving the central growing point and plenty of foliage underneath.

I’m not cutting the whole plant down.

But repeat harvests start before harvest day.

For germination:

* sow shallow, around 1/8–1/4 inch
* keep the seed zone evenly moist
* don’t let it swing from soaked to bone dry
* be patient — dill can take time to emerge
* lightweight row cover can help retain surface moisture, but monitor heat and moisture underneath

The variety I’ve liked so far is Thalia from Johnny’s.

I sow mine fairly densely in rows about 4 inches apart, which has worked well for the way I’m harvesting it.

Cooler weather has also been noticeably easier for me.

In summer, I typically get around 3–4 cuts.

In cooler weather, I’ve been getting 4–6 because the plants stay more compact and that central growing point is easier to avoid.

And the final piece:

I succession sow about every two weeks while conditions allow.

I’m not asking one planting to produce forever.

I want the next patch coming along before the older one finishes.

So when you harvest dill, pay attention to what’s staying on the plant not only what’s going into the basket.

09/09/2026

Everybody likes the idea of local food.

The part people don’t always see is the logistics required to make it actually work.

Growing the food is only one step.

It still has to be:

* harvested at the right time
* washed
* cooled
* packed
* labeled
* loaded
* routed
* delivered in great condition

And when you’re serving both CSA families and restaurants, those needs can be very different.

A CSA member wants consistency and a good mix.

A restaurant needs the right quantity, the right quality, and reliability because somebody is planning a menu around what you said you’d bring.

That means one of the most valuable things a small farm can sell isn’t just food.

It’s reliability.

If I say I’m bringing something, I want the customer to trust that it’s going to show up the way it should.

That relationship is what turns a one-time sale into something the farm can actually build around.

So today’s farm job is mostly driving.

But this is still farming.

The crop isn’t finished until it gets where it needs to go.

09/09/2026

Sponsored by Petra Tools

If something is chewing holes in your fall garden, don’t spray first. A hole in a leaf is evidence but it isn’t a diagnosis.

Tiny shotgun holes can suggest flea beetles. Larger irregular holes on brassicas can point toward caterpillars. Damage appearing overnight with slime trails or leaves chewed close to the ground may mean slugs or snails.

Look under the leaves, around the crown and through the bed early in the morning or after dark. Find the feeding pattern and, whenever possible, the pest itself. Then choose the least disruptive control that actually fits the problem.

Identify first. Treat second.

The PetraTools HD4000 giveaway is open through September 13 at 11:59 p.m. ET. Find the pinned giveaway post on the Naturally Green Farm & Flowers page to enter.

No purchase necessary. The entry form is the only entry method. Following, liking, commenting and sharing are appreciated but do not create additional entries or improve the odds of winning.

09/09/2026

A chicken can be eating plenty and still not be growing well.

That’s because feed intake is not the same thing as growth.

There are several layers to this.

First, protein percentage alone does not tell you the whole story.

Birds need the right balance of amino acids, including things like lysine and methionine, because those are the building blocks used for growth.

Second, genetics matter.

A Cornish Cross has been selected for extremely fast growth and feed efficiency.

A slower-growing heritage-type bird can eat the same feed and follow a completely different growth curve.

Third, the environment matters too.

Heat stress, poor ventilation, wet litter, competition at the feeder, parasites, or inadequate water intake can all reduce how efficiently a bird uses feed.

So I don’t just ask:

“How much are they eating?”

I ask:

“What are they gaining from what they’re eating?”

That’s feed conversion.

If you really want to understand whether your feeding program is working, track:

* bird weight
* age
* feed used
* mortality
* environmental conditions

That gives you something you can actually manage instead of just guessing.

A full feeder does not guarantee an efficient bird.

09/08/2026

If I already teach farming here for free, why would anybody pay to join Naturally Green Farm School?

Fair question.

The short videos aren’t going anywhere. I want to keep teaching here and sharing what we’re doing on the farm.

But there’s only so much I can explain in 60 or 90 seconds.

Farm School is where we go deeper.

If I’m planting a crop, I can show the spacing, timing, varieties, why I chose that method, what it cost, what I’d change, and then come back later and show whether it actually worked.

If I’m experimenting with chickens, soil, mushrooms, compost, food preservation, or one of the hundred other things happening here, I can document the entire process instead of only showing the interesting 30 seconds.

Membership includes:

* Naturally Green Farm Guides
* practical resources as I build them
* live Q&A sessions
* recorded Q&A replays
* deeper explanations from the farm
* direct questions inside the community

And the first 20 people really are founding members.

You’re not joining after the library is already built.

You’re joining while we build it.

I want the questions and interests inside that community to help shape the guides, experiments, videos and resources I make next.

And I don’t want Farm School to become a library of random farming opinions.

I want real experience from this farm, science, Extension guidance, research, numbers, comparisons, experiments, and documentation of the failures too.

Founding membership is $30/month for the first 20 members, and those members keep that $30 rate as Farm School grows.

If you enjoy these videos but constantly think:

“Okay, but I want the longer explanation…”

That’s who Farm School is for.

You can find it at NaturallyGreenFarm.com under Farm School.

09/08/2026

One of the easiest ways to go broke building a farm is buying every useful thing the moment you realize you need it.

There are a lot of things that would make Naturally Green better right now.

Low tunnels. Row cover. Hoops. Better irrigation. More infrastructure.

All of those things have value.

But that does not automatically make them the next thing I should spend money on.

Right now, I can still manage these beds.

I can watch the forecast.

I can keep the germination zone moist.

I can plant at the right time.

I can use the infrastructure I already have and accept that it requires a little more labor and attention.

That’s the part people need to think about when building a garden, homestead, or farm:

Don’t confuse the ideal system with the system you need to make progress today.

Build the thing that removes your biggest bottleneck when you can afford to build it.

Until then, understand what the infrastructure would do for you and figure out how much of that job you can accomplish another way.

Because if I waited until this farm had every tunnel, building, irrigation system, tool, and piece of equipment I wanted…

I wouldn’t have a farm.

I’d have a really expensive shopping list.

And for now, these carrots are getting water and attention instead of a brand-new low tunnel. 😂

09/07/2026

You can grow two crops in the same space but you need a plan for which one comes out first.

Today Caleb and I prepped two beds and transplanted broccoli.

Instead of leaving all the space between those young broccoli plants empty, we seeded French Breakfast radishes between them.

Why?

Because the broccoli needs more room later.

The radishes can use that space now.

The plan is to harvest the radishes before the broccoli grows large enough to need the space.

That’s the basic idea behind intercropping.

But the important part is this:

Intercropping is not the same thing as just cramming more plants into a bed.

You still have to think about:

* mature plant size
* timing
* water
* fertility
* competition
* which crop gets harvested first

We also ran out of French Breakfast radish seed and planted some Purple Top turnips instead.

Those take longer, so I’ll be watching that section more closely and would rather harvest those young than let them compete heavily with the broccoli.

So when you plan your garden, don’t only ask:

“What can fit in this bed today?”

Ask:

“How big will everything get and what can I harvest before the main crop needs that space?”

That’s the difference between a planned intercrop and an overcrowded bed.

Also, I started the day needing scallion seed.

Now I need radish seed too. 😂

09/07/2026

One of the easiest ways to waste your fall planting window is starting the right crop the wrong way.

Today we’re planting several different crops, but they’re not all being treated the same.

Broccoli is getting transplanted.

Radishes, beets and turnips are being direct-seeded.

Parsley and dill are going straight into the ground too.

Fall makes establishment especially important because every week brings shorter days and cooler temperatures.

With broccoli, I want a strong transplant already established when it hits the bed.

With root crops like radishes, beets and turnips, I want the root developing right where it’s going to finish.

And parsley?

Parsley apparently believes germination should be a character-building exercise. 😂

The important question isn’t only:

What can I plant?

It’s also:

How should I plant it?

Those are two different decisions and getting both of them right gives the crop a much better start.

Now we’ve got beds to fill.

Address

7835 Rodgers Road
Corryton, TN
37721

Opening Hours

Monday 10am - 6pm
Tuesday 10am - 6pm
Wednesday 10am - 6pm
Thursday 10am - 6pm
Friday 10am - 6pm

Website

,

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Naturally Green Farm & Flowers posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact The Business

Send a message to Naturally Green Farm & Flowers:

Shortcuts

Share