10/20/2023
đˇCLOTHES FOR MOURNINGđˇ
This article from a 1907 issue of the Ladiesâ Home Journal on mourning fashions for women sheds light on why this practice was so important during the Victorian era.
It opens by explaining that donning mourning clothes âis the conventional outward sign of respect to the dead, but it is also a safeguard for one who is heart-broken & grief-laden.â
Here are some interesting tidbits from the article:
âžď¸âFor the widow or the bereaved mother it is still correct to wear the time-honored Mary Stuart bonnet with a long veil draped over itâŚ. But let me repeat that this is strictly conventional mourning.â
âžď¸âIt is a difficult matter to give rules & regulations for wearing mourning, as even the authorities seem to disagree. However it is a generally-accepted rule that the widow mourns for two years; the parent for a year and a half, & the daughter for a parent a year or a year and a half.â
âžď¸âThe feeling of protection given by the veil is, of course, the reason for its use, & therefore English crepe is preferred by many women, as it hides the features completely.â
âžď¸âAn elderly woman should select a turban-shaped, crepe-trimmed hat but any style of black hat that is becoming & will carry a veil is quite permissible.â
âžď¸âFor a young girl of 16 or 18 years of age, dull black silk bows or rosettes should be used in place of crepe.â
âžď¸âThe widow wears a bonnet with the veil over her face for the first six months, after which time the bonnet is replaced by a hat with a short face veil to the shouldersâŚThe long veil is then draped at the back.â After a year, â a black hat with only a face veil is used during the remainder of the mourning periodâŚâ
âžď¸âFor the street, in first mourning, the plainest styles of coat & skirt, made of black serge or cloth, are chosen, worn with a silk or challis waist of simple design; but for the house, & for the street a little later, more elaboration is allowed.â
âžď¸ âThe Princesse & Empire styles seem particularly adapted to mourning gownsâŚAs to the materials to use: for a serviceable dress or a street suit, the henriettas & cashmeres are popularâŚCrepe de chine, louisine & taffeta are used for gowns & waists.â