Open Spaces

11/04/2026

When he visited England in 1911, George Rose, the famous Australian photographer, was there primarily to capture images of the coronation of King George the V. During that visit it is likely that he obtained a copy of one of the very popular photographic books by the acclaimed photographers and rock climbers, George and Ashley Abraham. Their major work, Rock-climbing in North Wales (1906) is considered as one of the most important rock climbing titles ever published and was a huge commercial success in England at the time. George Rose returned to Australia and photographed almost identical images capturing rock climbers in action in what is today called the Grampians National Park in Victoria.

This image was taken in 1909 in the Grand Canyon, near to Halls Gap. It is actually one half of a stereoscopic image. As far as I am aware, it has never been published before. I want to thank Ron Blum (the curator of the George Rose collection in Melbourne) and the Arapiles Climbing Museum, which now holds a copy of the photograph and is available for public viewing.

Note that route that these guys are climbing has never been recorded and is adjacent to established rock climbs. If anyone gets the time or the inclination, it would be really interesting to repeat the route and see what grade it is.

22/03/2026

This 28-page PDF guide describes a selection of the better multi-pitch climbs on Central Buttress and the Grey and Green Walls, located within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in the Northern Grampians. It also includes all of the single pitches (sport and trad) on the Drifting Slab and Petite Fleur Face, both of which are embedded on the Grey and Green Walls. For the really adventurous, I’ve included a topo to The Seventh Pillar on Taipan Wall, perhaps Victoria’s most exciting multi-pitch climb outside of Mt Buffalo.

For clarity, this guide has been designed to show just one multi-pitch route per A5 page. To further improve the experience, some of these multi-pitch routes have been re-jigged to create better, more sustained and more logical undertakings. Each A5 + A5 spread can be printed on a single landscape A4 page and carried to the crag. Alternatively, these A5 + A5 spreads can be viewed on your phone, tablet or desktop. Carrying a phone to view topos is now common practice on longer multi-pitches.

Many of the routes described in this guide rely on safety anchors for either protection, belays or rappel descents. The $5 cost of this PDF guide will go directly towards maintaining existing safety anchors and installing new anchors when necessary.

Stapylton Amphitheatre Guide Central ButtressGrey and Green Walls This 28-page PDF guide describes a selection of the better multi-pitch climbs on Central Buttress and the Grey and Green Walls, located within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in the Northern Grampians. It also includes all of the single pi...

17/12/2024

01/12/2024

The V.C.C. Rock Climbing Guide to Mt. Arapiles Volume 1

The first Arapiles climbing guide was released by the Victorian Climbing Club (VCC), and was edited by Michael Stone and Ian Speedie. This was Australia's first stitch-bound, hardback, climbing guide and was based on a previous stapled 'temporary' guide by father and son team, Bob and Steve Craddock. The first edition of this guide was released in 1965 and had 145 pages. The guide was so successful that a second edition was released not long afterwards, with the addition of an appendix, which ran to 152 pages. For collectors, these two editions of the guide are arguably the most sought after of all Victorian rock climbing guidebooks. Both editions are notable for their distinctive green covers. The first edition does not have the words 'Volume 1' on the cover or on the spine. I've seen very poor quality copies of the first and second editions selling for around $50 - $120. I have seen a near mint copy of the first edition sell on E-bay, about 12 years ago, for $800. I bought this second edition copy in 1974 from Reg Marron and Nic Reeves who were then working at Bushgear (managed by Loch Wilson) in Hardware Lane, Melbourne. I remember that it was the last copy Bushgear had in stock and it cost me $3.50.

22/02/2024

Everest, Guns & the Money tells an extraordinary story of how a plane, carrying Mexican ma*****na and Colombian co***ne, crashed into a frozen Yosemite lake killing both the pilots. How Dewhirst and his climbing buddies not only enriched themselves of drug cash, but how Dewhirst managed to find himself in the employ of the CIA running guns to Santiago in support of Chile’s General Pinochet’s junta. This is also the story of Colonel Al Morgan, a distinguished but disillusioned US Air Force pilot who confided in Dewhirst during multiple helicopter runs in the autumn of 1973. Anyone with even a passing interest in Aussie rock climbing will know the name Chris Dewhirst. This is a crazy rollarcoaster ride of a story that will appeal to not only climbers but to anyone with even a passing interest in the far-reaching events occurring in Central America during the early 1970s.

Visit One Tree Press https://everestgunsandmoney.com.au/ to purchase your copy.
Book, audio-book and eBook available.

09/12/2023

On the 21st March 1965, Peter Jackson, John Fahey and Chris Baxter teamed up to repeat Mixed Route (originally graded 11) at Mt Rosea in the Grampians. Mixed Route was an impressive feat of route finding by George Glover and Greg Lovejoy who had climbed the first ascent just four years previously in 1961. The three images show Peter Jackson belaying John Fahey on the fifth pitch, Peter Jackson leading the sixth pitch and John Fahey seconding the sixth pitch. Notice Peter Jackson's single piton anchor, the crouching waist belay and the general lack of protection. Images by Chris Baxter.

15/11/2023

HAPPY 60TH CLIMBING BIRTHDAY MOUNT ARAPILES

Today marks the 60th anniversary of the first roped rock climbs at Mt Arapiles/Dyurrite. Rock climbers climbed Introductory Route (Doug Angus, Bob Craddock and Peter Jackson, grade 5), Siren (Greg Lovejoy and Steve Craddock, grade 9) and Tiptoe Ridge (Greg Loveoy and Steve Craddock, grade 5) on the Pinnacle Face on the 16 November 1963. In the subsequent 60 years Mt Arapiles/Dyurrite has arguably become one of the the finest trad climbing crags on planet earth. This is especially true if one considers the many hundreds of wonderful easier grade climbs that are blessed with perfect rock, classic moves and often perfect protection. For 60 years these towering orange cliffs have welcomed hundreds of thousands climbers, not only from around Australia but from every corner of the globe. Climbers soon started moving to nearby Natimuk, which became one of Western Victoria's rare rural success stories. Interestingly, when climbers first arrived in 1963 it was obvious that Mt Arapiles/Dyurrite was suffering heavily from erosion and was almost bare of all trees and bushes. A rifle range was situated near to the Watchtower Faces and sheep and goats grazed all the way up to the cliff faces. After 60 years climbers and Natimuk locals have transformed Mt Arapiles/Dyurrite into the beautiful bushland setting we all know and love today.

25/02/2023

After the discovery of the historically significant 1909 roped rock climbing image on Mackays Peak in the Grampians National Park (link below) we decided to do a bit more digging, especially of the George Rose stereograph images scattered around the country. We eventually contacted Ron Blum, the Adelaide-based author of 'George Rose, Australia's Master Stereographer'. Ron was incredibly helpful and after sorting through his personal collection he managed to locate another bunch of roped rock climbing images taken in the Grampians during that same 1908-1909 period. This first image shows four women rock climbing at Barneys Castle (Barbican Rocks). It was common during this era that active outdoors women (walkers and climbers) would wear pantaloons tied at the ankles and long flowing skirts over the top for ease of movement. Parks Victoria states that Barbican Rocks is currently under review as a rock climbing destination.