Arms Corps Models

22/08/2026

3D Printing tip #69
During this lesson, you will learn the fundamental aspects of the copy/paste function in 3D CAD.

When drawing a part or component and using the copy/paste function, be careful not to drop an entire part/component into the drawing you are working on, as it effectively means your PC will try to render 3 files.
As seen in Fig.1
This can cause issues such as really, really big files, slowing down the PC by sucking the life out of the memory, and the printer trying to print said pasted parts inside the job.

Here endeth the lesson.

20/08/2026

Non manifold issues sorted I think on the .30 cals.
Parts re-sized correctly and the right ammunition.
First test print has been done. Some supports need to be changed, but all in all, a good start.

18/08/2026

https://youtu.be/8gUSq7pxux4?si=PK7RSQXLK2va6SU3

Award-winning and critically acclaimed documentary, The Battle of L...

17/08/2026

That was a good session.
Many, many thanks to JP tonight.
Couple of small welds to add and then supports and test print.
The other files are now corrected and all will be test printed on Wednesday. With any luck the files are now manifold and will print correctly.
Oh and the many messages I received from QMHE over the weekend, sorry, but these guns had to be fixed and I will get to the messages tomorrow night.
Thanks Team, I appreciate the kind words, have a good one.

17/08/2026

Research is everything and the first part of what I do and the most time consuming.
If the research is not on the money, then the kit will be affected and in turn sales. Not that I do this for the coin, but it is nice to have new flash printers.
Anyway, when I get stuck into a component and get on a roll, sometimes I don't have any measurements to work from. However, I can usually work it out with other parts in an image or an overall size and go from there. Whether that overall size be the base kit or the real thing.
Now we have seen this by starting a drawing with a measurement from a .303 round instead of a .30-06, and that in turn snowballed all the way down to a massive f**k up, and thank the Gods, it did not become the final product.
Well, now I found another one in the same job.
The plan was to have this gun, the L3A3/A4 in a No5 Mk3 cradle and mount (or depending on the manufacture date and vehicle, a No8 Mk1), for the Ferret, M11A1 FSV, M113A1 MRV, Centurion Mk5/1 and the M577.
As it has now been pointed out to me (thanks to GFC) the liner mount on the Cent is square to the cradle and not angled like the FSV/MRV. Bu**er. I have not had much to do with the Centurion before, and it would appear I have assumed the whole thing is the same. I blame tunnel vision.
More research. I have nothing on the HD. Hit up one of my researchers (AC), sends lots of images, but not quite the right angle to see how it’s made/fitted.
I dig a bit deeper, get up of my fat arse, and check out the book shelf. As a young man I did a couple of trips to Pucka and did photograph a lot of the museum exhibits. Including the Cent and that mount. WooHoo!!! Oh, hang on, s**t, FSV mount and cradle. Sigh.
Go to the source then. The AWM. 420 odd photos to go through. 300+ images searched and finally start to find what I am looking for. And there are a couple of slightly different versions on how the liner is held in the liner tray.
Excellent! Now we are getting somewhere.

The rule for anything Australian armour related is this, never, never ever trust your reference from just one source if possible. As good as Australian museums are, and they do sensational work, sometimes they need to cut corners to get the display on show.
I broke this cardinal rule right from the start and did not check my reference.
Here endeth the lesson for “last week Jason”.

17/08/2026

Well, thats just a little bit embarrassing. 303 rounds, not .30-06 rounds added to the L3A3/A4.
Explains why I was having overall scale issues with the job.
Silly, silly boy.

**many thanks GK for pointing out my amateur mistake.

*** Corrected belt image added.

16/08/2026

The things you find at a swap meet!!
The instructions stated this one is from 2011 and with the MH logo it would be one of the first kits cast.
Sad thing is, with all the casting I did back then, I never actually kept any kits for myself.
Most of the molds for this are long gone, but with a decent set of calipers and a new PC Mouse, she will live again.

Oh and thanks to everyone who came past the trade table this weekend at QMHE to have a looky see. Much appreciated.

13/08/2026

More to follow.

16/03/2026

Been having a little play in a new CAD program.
It is very difficult to say the least and I would be up S**t Creek without a paddle, if it were not for the power of You Tube.

Anyway, I have been approached by an RSL to resurrect one of my old kits so it can be built by one of Australia's very top modelers to be placed on permanent display.
This RSL has a few members that have a close association with the new acquisition of the ASLAV-25 (ARN16310) , at the Australian War Memorial. **

My ASLAV kit back in the day was based on this car along with 16302.
Both ASLAVs were part of SECDET VIB at the time.
A few of the old moulds will need to be fixed up (or replaced with 3D printed parts), but for the most part I have a couple of kits for him to play with.
However, the mould for the Michelin XML tyres has gone lahlah.
That left me with one option, draw and print it.

Printed parts image added.

This was a very quick print. 0.05mm layers and solid. I could not for the life of me keep the drawing manifold once I hollowed out the wheels. So they stayed solid.
They will be printed again, this time on Mother Superior at 0.01mm and eventually cast.

Now, you may be wondering, "when can we get a new ASLAV-25 from ACM"? Sorry, but ya gunna have to wait. Too many other jobs that need to be finished before I throw myself down those stairs.

**See my post a couple of weeks ago.

13/03/2026

Arms Corps Models will be offline for a couple of days, so I can work out this new printer.
Here's hoping it can do the same, if not better work than the Yellow Princess and Goddess.
The M7 machines, while good printers, just can not do the really fine detail of my 35th scale kits. They are great for the 1/16th however.