18/07/2026
The luv2qlt.uk "Slouchy Hobo" Tote Bag Guide. or make one on one of our workshop training days.
This design is popular for its simplicity and single-piece integrated strap, which distributes weight better than a separately attached strap.
1. What You Need (Materials)
Fabric: The bags in the image have a soft, heavy weight cotton or thick canvas finish. You need a durable, non-stretch fabric. Good choices are 8oz–12oz cotton, heavy linen, or a upholstery fabric (like the suede texture) if single skin.
Fabric Quantity: You will need approximately 1.5 to 2 meters (about 1.6 to 2.2 yards) of fabric if you are doing a single layer (unlined). If you want a lined bag, double this and add a bias binding or interface.
Thread: Heavy-duty, all-purpose polyester or cotton thread.
Sewing Machine and Needles: A machine that can handle heavy fabric, with size 90/14 or 100/16 needles.
2. Pattern and Cutting Guide
The pattern piece is a single, integrated "teardrop" shape.
(A) Re-tracing the Pattern:
Use a large sheet of paper or fabric from a roll (even newspaper).
Draw the vertical spine first. Based on the measurements from the image:
Measure from the center of the bottom curve vertically to the top curve of the handle.
The numbers: 27cm (base curve) + 98cm (long curve) + 27cm (upper body) + 13cm (strap opening) + 27cm (strap top) = 192 cm. Correction: Looking closer, the long central measurement (98 cm) likely refers to the perimeter length of the outer curve, not a vertical height. A better estimate for the vertical height of the main bag body, combining the 27cm and 27cm sections and the base curve, would be around 70-80cm. The strap itself adds significantly to the height. We will proceed with a generous vertical estimation to allow for the draping shown. Let's use a full-height center line of 130 cm.
Use the horizontal measurements to create the width at key points:
Bottom base width: 25cm.
Max width (lower body): 27cm.
Middle body width: 27cm.
Width at the base of the strap handle: 13cm.
Use a ruler to join the horizontal points, creating a rough polygonal shape first, then smooth it into the complex curve you see.
(B) Cutting Instructions:
Mark the Fabric: Pin or tape your paper pattern piece to the wrong side of your fabric. If you have enough fabric, it's highly recommended to make a full paper pattern for the entire single large piece rather than trying to cut on a fold (it will be awkward with this shape).
Seam Allowance (Crucial): The pattern in the image appears to show the finished lines and dimensions. You must add your seam allowance all the way around the outside edge. A typical seam allowance for canvas is 1.5 cm (about 5/8 inch). Trace the pattern with a pencil, then add the allowance line, and cut on the allowance line.
Required Pieces:
MAIN BAG (unlined): Cut 1 large piece.
LINING (optional but recommended): Cut 1 large piece of a complementary fabric. (Lining will give the bag more structure and hide the seams.)
3. Simplified Sewing Steps
This method is for an unlined bag.
(Step 1) Finish All Raw Edges:
Canvas and heavy fabrics fray easily. Before you do anything else, use a zigzag stitch or a serger/overlocker around the entire perimeter of your single cut piece. This will prevent fraying inside the bag.
(Step 2) Join the Handle/Strap Tops:
Take the single piece and fold it so that the two top-most, narrow points of the strap meet. Pin them, right sides together. Sew them together with a straight stitch, backstitching at both ends. Press the seam open flat. You now have a loop-style strap.
(Step 3) Create the Body Curves:
Take the entire piece and fold it right-sides-together, creating a large tube shape where the "body" part is. The two long side curves will be aligned.
Match up the curves of the body.
Pin and sew with a straight stitch along the curved seam, from near the base of the handle area all the way around the main body of the bag to the other base-of-handle point. (Do NOT sew across the 25cm wide base opening.) Backstitch at both ends.
(Step 4) Close the Base (The 25cm flat part):
Turn the bag right-sides-out briefly to check. The bottom of the bag should have an opening.
Turn it back wrong-sides-out. Pinch the remaining flat 25cm bottom edge. Make sure the side seams you just sewed are pushed inward and centered.
Pin this flat bottom edge, creating the "flat" base seen in the pattern. Sew straight across. For extra strength, sew this seam twice.
(Step 5) The Hardest Part: Hemming the Handle/Strap and Top Openings
This part is tricky because of the curves.
Fold the remaining raw edges (the ones around the handles and the main bag opening, which were NOT sewed in step 3) inward by about 1.25 cm (0.5 inch).
Pin carefully around the curves, using small, close pins. You will need to "snipping" tiny triangles into the fabric allowance on the curves to make it lie flat.
Sew slowly with a topstitch close to the fold around the entire perimeter of the opening and the inside of the handle. Use a walking foot if you have one.
(Step 6) Final Press and Turn:
Press all seams flat on the inside, and then turn the bag right-sides-out. Give the whole bag a good press with a steam iron.
Notes for a Lined Bag:
A lining is a superior finish. To line it, you will sew the whole main fabric bag and the whole lining bag separately (steps 1–4, and step 5 only joining the top seam of the strap), then place one inside the other, wrong-sides-together, and then sew the raw top edge opening. Turn through a gap you left in the lining. This hides all internal seams. This method is slightly more complex.
This guide is for a simple, single-fabric version to get you started! Happy Quilitng (and sewing)!
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