27/05/2026
The question from a client via email:
I was looking over the Karin Herzog moisturiser you recommended and I was wondering if it will cause damage? My lash lady does facials and she said about antioxidants being better for the face because oxygen links to cells and can cause damage?
Just wondering if you still think would be suitable for me?
The answer (it is one of my answers, so buckle in for my Jennifer Aniston "here's the science bit" 😂):
So we spend a fortune on antioxidants to stop oxidation, yet an oxygen cream is meant to revitalise the skin. While it seems like a contradiction, the distinction lies in the state of the oxygen and how the skin uses it.
To understand the conflict, we have to look at reactive oxygen species (ROS), often called 'free radicals'. These are unstable oxygen molecules that have lost an electron. To stabilse themselves, they 'steal' electrons from your healthy skin cells, damaging collagen and DNA in the process. Antioxidants (like vitamin C or E) act as a generous donor. Basically they give an electron to the free radical so it doesn't have to rob your skin cells. This prevents oxidative stress, which is a primary driver of premature ageing.
Onto the role of oxygen... Oxygen infused products aren't trying to create free radicals, they are delivering molecular oxygen (O2). Your skin cells need oxygen to produce ATP (adenosine triphosphate), the fuel for cellular repair and regeneration. As we age, microcirculation slows down. This means less oxygen reaches the upper layers of the skin, leading to a duller complexion and slower healing. Topical oxygen aims to suffuse the skin with the gas to jump start metabolism and collagen production, much like a hyperbaric chamber might aid wound healing.
The contradiction is managed by the skin's own biology. Healthy cells are perfectly capable of using molecular oxygen for energy without it immediately turning into a damaging free radical, provided the skin has enough antioxidants on hand to manage the natural metabolic by products, which is why the inclusion of tocopherol (vitamin E) in the formula for one example assists in its safe use.
Unlike many oxygen products that simply bubble on the surface, Karin Herzog uses stabilised hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). When the cream touches the skin, the catalase enzyme in your tissues triggers a reaction that converts the liquid H202 into pure oxygen gas (O2) and water (H20). This reaction creates a tiny amount of pressure. This micropressure is what drives the oxygen, and any other active ingredients like Vitamin A, deeper into the epidermis than a standard topical cream would. If you have had one of the oxygen facials you'll be familiar with the popping feeling during the masque stage.
The reason this doesn't count as bad oxidation (free radical damage with ROS) comes down to the antiseptic and metabolic benefits;
Antibacterial Action: Many skin issues are caused by anaerobic bacteria (which hate oxygen, like C.acnes). By 'flooding' the pores with oxygen, you create an environment where these bacteria cannot survive, helping to clear the complexion without harsh ingredients.
Detoxification: Oxygen is essential for the skin's natural waste removal process. By increasing the local oxygen supply, you are essentially helping the skins microcirculation stimulation natural waste removal helping to alleviate dullness and ageing.
Collagen Synthesis: Collagen production is an oxygen intensive process. Providing the fuel (O2) at a cellular level supports the very structures that antioxidants are trying to protect.
Conclusion, and the tldr summary😉: In chemistry, H2O2 is a powerful oxidiser, but in this specific skincare application, the goal is the result of its breakdown (O2), which the skin recognises and metabolises as fuel rather than a threat.
As always, drop me a line if you have a question, I will reply with either a full on block of text or keep it to a quick yes or no, depending on your preference 👀.
See you soon
Andrew
