18/10/2023
Ajrakh Modal Checks Border Zari saree
Call.9979424233
www.ajrakhblockprints.com
Ajrakh process in 12th part
1. The basic material is gray or unbleached cotton fabric.
2. To prepare it for printing and dyeing, the cloth goes through various processes: Soaking, washing and treatment with stem, sodium bicarbonate, castor oil, eruca sativa oil, camel dung and tamarisk or myrobalan.
3. The fabric is soaked in water which has camel dung immersed in it to make the fabric soft. This also acts as a bleaching agent as it is an alkaline and helps in the Printing of the fabric.
4. The first stage of printing includes mud resist which consists of natural gum, lime and Fullers earth and this produces a white outline on the finished fabric.
5. Next, a navy blue outline of mordant is printed which is made from iron scraps, ferrous sulfate and millet flour. When developed in alizerine this produces black color.
6. The same mordant as mentioned above is now used to print the filler.
7. A second resist treatment is printed on to protect the white fabric from the Subsequent indigo dyeing.
8. A third resist of gum and Fullers earth is then applied, mixed along with an alum mordant. This resist blocks pe*******on by indigo while the alum when treated with alizerine produces the Ajrak red.
9. The printed fabric is dipped in the vat containing indigo to dye the unresisted areas. A copper vessel is used for this process as copper does not leave its own color.
10. Thorough washing removes the excess indigo and degums the fabric.
11. Boiling the fabric in an alizerine solution develops the red and black mordants. After the cloth has been washed and dried, the desired areas are coated with a resist made of gum, lime and Fullers earth to prevent indigo dye pe*******on.
12. The final wash removes any excess dye and the resist from the fabric surface.
13. When worn and washed, the colors become more brilliant and luminous. There are 22 processes in Ajrak printing which are very tedious and timeāconsuming, and very few crafts people go through all the stages.