21/08/2026
This is How they Still Make Old Cowhide Dresses in Lesotho!
So 'Mabokang Mokotjo from the University of Pretoria basically went on a bit of a mission. She wanted to figure out how Basotho communities used to prepare, tan, decorate and look after cowhide back in the day.
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She used a particular Setlokoa cowhide dress, what they call "mose oa khomo" as her main example.
Her worry was that this whole chunk of cultural heritage is quietly disappearing.
Mordenism, factories, city life, and the fact that everyone now thinks of "Seshoeshoe" as the classic "traditional" outfit have all pushed cowhide dresses to the sidelines.
Back then, these dresses actually said something about you.
The shape of the hem, the beads, those little copper rings, they could tell people whether you were married or still a young girl. A half-moon edge meant "married woman," while a V-shaped edge pointed to:
"Still a girl."
Mokotjo found that decoration was meant to do more than "looking good". It was basically a wearable ID card.
She mentions different types like "sebeto", "setea" and "mokhese", but the Setlokwa dress she studied closely really stood out because of its beadwork and all those copper rings.
She did her fieldwork in two very different spots in Lesotho: Malingoaneng, up in the Mokhotlong highlands in, and Joalaboholo, down in Leribe.
And that comparison turned out to matter a lot.
Up in Malingoaneng, hide processing is still more of a community thing.
Down in Joalaboholo, it's become more of a side hustle. People there often get their hides from farms across the border in South Africa and just soak them in water to soften them.
But in Malingoaneng, the hides usually come from local cattle, and people use "moroko", which is basically the leftover grain from brewing traditional beer, to soften the leather.
And that highland process is pretty clever.
After skinning and scraping the hide, the tanning process involves brewing beer.
Like, actual traditional beer.
You malt the sorghum, brew it, cook the fermented mixture, sieve it, and then take the leftover moroko and work it into the hide until it's soft enough to cut. Then the hide gets treated with red ochre, "letsoku", mixed with "mafura a lefehlo", a fat made from sour milk.
They whisk the milk, cook it, cool it into a creamy substance, and mix it with the ochre to make a reddish ointment that colours, softens and preserves the leather.
Not bad.
Right?
Mokotjo also tracked down the old toolkit, knives, sharpened sticks, hoes, axes, awls, stones, wooden frames, aloe leaves, polished bones, scrapers.
But here's the sad part: lots of the specialised scraping tools simply don't exist anymore because nobody's really doing this work often enough. Some people in the highlands just use a hoe blade instead. So when the craft disappears, the tools vanish with it.
The dress she focused on has a lovely story too. It belonged to her own grandmother, born around 1922. Her father had a cow slaughtered to make her initiation dress. She wore it on her graduation day from initiation, and—wait for it—on that very same day, her future husband asked for her hand in marriage. So one dress ended up being her initiation dress, her bridal dress, and later her ceremonial dress. It wS about ninety years old at the time of writing, 820 mm long, 880 mm wide, with a 940 mm waist, covered in multicoloured beads, copper rings and dangling beadwork called "makontsiri".
As for the condition? Well, it's got holes, oxidation, missing beads, broken threads, loose attachments.
You know, ninety years of life. Her advice is to handle it as little as possible, store it flat and supported, keep the dust off, and be really careful about moisture, because semi-tanned leather can stiffen and stain if it gets wet.
At the end of the day, Mokotjo's point is that artisanal tanning is a whole library of Basotho indigenous knowledge. And with migration, drought and the Polihali Dam project threatening to displace communities, that knowledge needed to be written down before it was gone for good.
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REFERENCE
Mokotjo, M. 2021. Investigation of artisanal tanning in Lesotho communities using a Setlokoa cowhide dress as a case study. Mini-dissertation, MSoc Sci Tangible Heritage Conservation. Pretoria: University of Pretoria, School of the Arts, Faculty of Humanities