Mud Creek Traders

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Get Value for your decorating dollar, Reichenbachia Botanical Prints c1890How often have we purchased a print at an art ...
03/30/2023

Get Value for your decorating dollar, Reichenbachia Botanical Prints c1890

How often have we purchased a print at an art show or mall only to grow tired of it over time? The issue then becomes what to do with it. We ask family and friends if they want it, usually hearing polite answers like “It doesn’t go with my décor” or “I don’t have the wall space”. It then becomes a yard sale item bringing cents on the dollar. Why not make your next decorating purchase something that appreciates in value over time. I’d like to suggest Reichenbachia Botanical Prints as one alternative.

What are Reichenbachia Botanical Prints and where do they come from?

Book name - History of Reichenbachia: Orchids Illustrated and Described. These books were comprised of 192 Orchid illustrations and associated text pages assembled in four volumes, created by German born orchidologist Frederick Sander. The work was named after renowned orchidologist Heinrich Gustav Reichenbachia. The four volume set was dedicated as follows: Series 1, Volume 1 to Queen Victoria -1888; Series 1 Volume 2 to Augusta Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein, Emperors of Germany and Queen of Prussia - 1890; Series 2 Volume 1 to Maria Feodorovna Empress of Russia - 1892; Series 2, Volume 2 to Marie Henriette Queen of Belgians - 1894 (full printing of final volume not completed until 1901 due to financial constraints). The plates were created using woodcut blocks, chromolithography and in a few cases hand coloring.

So how collectable are these prints and why break the books up?

I have seen examples of the complete set of volumes for sale in the $60,000 range. That said there are a limited number of buyers willing to spend $60,000 for four very large coffee table books. For that reason the books were disassembled and sold as individual prints. Many have been sold to interior decorators looking to create a collage for their customers. I have a limited number left and wanted to share what I think is an excellent opportunity with those that have followed us on our page. I’m offering these prints to Facebook followers for $200 each plus shipping (if shipped). The approximate size of the prints are 15 1/4" x 20 3/8". The framed example is 25 1/2" x 20". If interested simply contact me for the discounted price.

I currently have some 40 different prints with the associated detail on each orchid for sale. Eight are currently offered for sale on our eBay site with additional offerings available but not listed. Each print has tissue paper separating each page and is housed in a clear plastic folio. These prints and associated pages have been housed in a temperature / moisture controlled environment since they were dissembled and packed away for storage. I have included a few photos with this post. I have also included a framed example of one I have hanging in our home.

Framing these prints – given the age and delicate nature of the prints and associated documentation, I’d suggest professional matting and framing. Once framed, you can insert the documentation pages in a flap on the rear of the frame (see example). This way you’re sure to retain the documentation with the print for safe keeping.

In summary: Whether it's Reichenbachia Prints, listed artist paintings or other collectable works of art, when decorating I encourage you to consider purchasing items that appreciate over time.

More to come on “Is my painting valuable” in a later article

Thank you for following Mud Creek Traders

Check your Vintage Jewelry Box for “Bakelite”I’m guessing that many of you have or have had Vintage Jewelry tucked away ...
01/11/2023

Check your Vintage Jewelry Box for “Bakelite”

I’m guessing that many of you have or have had Vintage Jewelry tucked away somewhere, not wanting to part with it but assuming it had no value. In some cases you’re right but that’s not the case if it’s made of Bakelite.

What’s Bakelite? Bakelite was first developed in the early 1900’s by Leo Baekeland, a Belgian chemist. Because of its lightweight durable properties, it could be easily molded into infinite shapes and products (lamps, jewelry boxes, radios, game pieces etc.). In the 1920’s Bakelite Jewelry became extremely popular, coming in many colors and designs. In the 1950’s other plastic alternatives became available, often replacing Bakelite. Vintage items made of Bakelite are collectable with Jewelry being the largest category. Attached you will see several Bakelite Jewelry examples with some being solely comprised of Bakelite and others utilizing mixed materials.

So how do you know if your item is Bakelite? There are a couple of ways to test suspect plastic items to see if they are Bakelite. Some of these methods require knowledge and experience handling the material. Some are simple and can be accomplished with no previous experience. I’ll list a couple of them, focusing on those that someone with no experience can accomplish.

Anyone Can Accomplish
 Smell Test - Great for doing investigation in the field. Bakelite gives off a distinct smell when heated. Rub the item vigorously with your thumb (emphasis on hard and vigorously to create sufficient friction. Could take up to 45 seconds) and immediately smell it. If Bakelite you will smell a distinct formaldehyde odor. So what does formaldehyde smell like? If you’re unfamiliar with the smell, I’d suggest it has a strong pickle odor. You will know it when you smell it. This is a great way to test suspect items while shopping. If while at a garage sale you see someone rubbing jewelry and smelling it they’re not peculiar, they are simply testing the item for Bakelite.
 409 Household Cleaner – I’d suggest this to be the preferred method for the novice that doesn’t want to purchase a polish that will have little use once your test is complete. I have demonstrated this test in the attached photos. Place a small amount of 409 on a cotton swab and rub that swab on the interior or back of the item (may not work well on black items). If Bakelite, the swab will turn yellow.
 Hot Water – Since Bakelite gives off the formaldehyde smell when heated, very hot water will often produce that desired smell if held under water. Run hot water over the item and immediately smell it looking for the distinctive odor. DO NOT use this method if your item is made of mixed materials (Bakelite and wood etc.) for fear of damaging the “other” material.
 Simichrome Polish – This is the preferred approach for collectors. If collecting or testing a lot of suspected Bakelite items, it may be worth the purchase. If you simply wanted to test a few items, I’d suggest a more common household cleaner (409) that will accomplish the test. If using Simichrome, you rub a small amount of the inside or back of the item and if Bakelite, it will turn yellow. If the item has lacquer over it, this approach may not work.

Requires Experience to Accomplish
 The familiar “clunk” – the sound two pieces of Bakelite make when tapped together (requires experience)
 Weight – Bakelite will often feel heavier than other plastic items that are similar in size, made of other plastics. Hold similar size bangles, one in each hand noting that the heavier one may be Bakelite (requires experience).
 Visual Inspection – Older Bakelite with display minor scratching and wear. There should be no mold seams (requires experience).

Testing Bakelite Summary (with little knowledge of the category)
 If in the marketplace, use your thumb to rub the item vigorously, looking for that distinctive formaldehyde smell.
 If at home, purchase a bottle of 409 and use a cotton swab to rub the inside of the piece looking for a yellow color change on the swab.
 If you have access to hot water and the item is only plastic, hold the item under the running hot water and look for that distinctive formaldehyde smell.
Note: If trying to sell a piece of Bakelite to a collector, they will often ask if the piece has been tested with Simichrome Polish (considered the gold standard in testing)

So what’s it worth?
Like most collectables, the value is determined by condition, design, color, age and the craftsmanship involved in creating the item. Said another way, the value is determined by one or more buyers looking to acquire the same piece. For that reason, when searching Bakelite items that have sold, you will likely see wild swings in selling price. Although still highly collectable, Bakelite has declined in value in recent years. The common uncarved bangle is harder to sell than the more unique pins and carved desirable colored bangles

Items that tend to demand higher prices (in my opinion)
 Reversed carved items (Apple Juice Reversed Carved Pin in photos - $350.00)
 Pins (Stagecoach, Steer, Bronco in photos - $50.00 to $125.00)
 Red Bangle Bracelets (red tends to be more desirable than some of the other solid colors - $30 to in excess of $100)
 Unique Color Combinations
 Heavily Carved Bangles – (depends on color and carved design)
 Bakelite Items (not jewelry – radios etc.) can bring very high prices

In summary
Often times, collectables are purchased and viewed on a shelf. Bakelite Jewelry is a category that can be collected and worn on a daily bases due to its durability. Many of you may already have some in your Vintage Jewelry Box or drawer and don’t even know it. When attending estate and garage sales, it’s an easy item to search for. Sellers will likely have it in a junk jewelry box priced to move because they don’t know what they have. So if you see an item that you think might be Bakelite, simply rub it with your thumb vigorously and smell. Just remember, those around will look at you oddly just as you did before reading this article.

As always, let me know if you have specific questions or would like assistance with authenticating or valuing a piece you believe is Bakelite.

Introduction to Coin Collecting - (do my coins have value)?In my opinion, collecting and valuing coins is one of the eas...
12/07/2022

Introduction to Coin Collecting - (do my coins have value)?

In my opinion, collecting and valuing coins is one of the easier categories to participate in once armed with some basic knowledge and tools. I’ll attempt to provide the necessary basics in this article and add more detail in future articles. Once you have the basics, you should be able to investigate any coin or bullion, foreign or domestic.

Since there are too many coins and coin variations to cover in one article, we will start with the Morgan Silver Dollar today.

The Basics
• Each coin has an obverse and reverse side (important when describing the condition of a coin). The obverse would be what you would call the “heads” side (portrait of a person etc.). The reverse is just that, the “tails” side. Coins with portraits on both sides will have a date on one side. In this case, consider the side with the portrait and date the obverse.
• Mint marks – mint marks identify where the coin was made. Since scarcity affects the value of coins, the mint mark (letter) can greatly impact the value of a coin. Mint marks are as follows:
 C - Charlotte NC (gold coins only) 1838-1861
 CC – Carson City, Nevada 1870-1893
 D – Dahlonega, Georgia (gold coins only) 1838-1861
 D – Denver Colorado 1906 to date
 O – New Orleans, Louisiana 1838-1861;1879-1909
 P – Philadelphia PA 1793 to date; (P not used in some of the early years)
 S – San Francisco CA, 1854 to date
 W – West Point NY, 1984 to date
 Typically if there is no mint mark on a US coin, assume it was minted in Philadelphia.
Using the example of an 1883 Morgan Silver Dollar (same grade), an 1883-O would have an estimated collectable value of $40.00 and an 1883-CC would be worth roughly $250. Mint marks can make a big difference. Any Morgan Silver Dollar coin with a CC mint mark will increase the value significantly.
• Brockage – brockage occurs when a mirror image of a coin is struck on a blank. The struck coin fails to eject and a new blank is inserted between the struck coin and the hammer die. The die strikes the second blank leaving its image on one side while pressing the blank against the previously stuck coin. Most brockages are off-center. Fully overlapping brockages are the most desirable. Since these errors are seen as one of a kind, they are collectable. As an example, I’ve previously sold a common penny with brockage for $160. I don’t currently have any examples to show but you can find them on eBay if interested. In general, coins with errors are valuable.
• In most cases, coins will have 3 values. Those values are the face value, collectable value and precious metal value. Your coins value will be the highest of the 3.
• Face value – the stated value of the coin or bullion. A Silver Doller is worth a dollar etc.
• Collectable value – the value of your coin based on its rarity and condition (more on this later)
• Precious metal value – the value of your coin if melted (or melt value). What I’m about to share on calculating melt value applies to silver and gold coins or any gold or silver items. You have all seen the ads “We Pay Top Dollar for Your Gold and Silver”. How do they determine the value of your items? Below is explanation of how process works (in my experience). The process can vary based on how much you are melting and how many steps are involved in the melt process.

Melt Example
• Identify what the current spot silver price is. This can easily be found online or on the web address I will attach below. Today for example the price is $22.21 per troy ounce (troy ounce equals 1.097 standard ounces). The calculator on the link below will do the math to value your item once you enter the coin weight and % silver http://coinapps.com/silver/gram/calculator/
• For the purpose of this calculation, I’ll use an 1883 Morgan Silver Dollar. The weight of a Morgan is typically around 26.7 grams of 90% silver which calculates to a melt value of $17.17. When you take that coin to someone buying gold and silver, you will likely get about 50% (estimate) of that price or roughly $8.58. To understand why, you need to understand the melt process. You take your silver to someone that accumulates it to sell to the person that melts it. They take a cut for their efforts. That accumulated silver is sold to someone who melts it (silver melts at a temperature above 1,763 F so it takes special equipment and skill). They take a cut for their efforts. That silver is then sold to someone that purchases it for reuse. If you melt large quantities of silver I have heard of getting as much as 65% to 70% of melt pricing but I would suggest you us 50% as a gauge.

Value of an 1883 Morgan VF (shown in photos)
• Face Value $1.00, Melt Value $8.58, Collectable Value Est. $50.00.
• With some coins, the face value will be all the coins worth (Eisenhower Dollar for example). In other cases, the melt value will be more than the collectable value (silver dollar or other that is badly worn). That’s why you need to know what you have.

Grading Coins
There are many criteria for grading coins. In general, those criteria are strike, preservation, luster, color, and attractiveness and mint location. There are four primary grading services that certify the grade of coins (PCGS, NGC, ICG and ANACS). Collectors that see coins offered that have been graded by these agencies know they can be confident that the coin they buy meets the rating standard. There is a significant cost to using these services and I would only do so if you have a VERY RARE coin. So how do we determine the grade of our coins to understand their collectable value? You buy an inexpensive reference book and rate the coin based on the criteria commonly used on each coin type. Each coin has high points and the rating of the coin is often based on the wear to those high points. Since this article will focus on Silver Dollars, I’ll give an example of the Morgan Silver Dollar grading criteria.
• VF – Very Fine, two thirds of hair lines from top of forehead to ear visible. Ear well defined. Feathers on eagle’s breast worn
• EF – Extra Fine, All hair lines strong and ear bold. Eagles feathers all plain but with slight wear on breast and wing tips
• AU – About Uncirculated, Slight trace of wear on the bust shoulder and hair left of forehead, and on eagles breast and top edges of wings
• MS 60– Uncirculated, No trace of wear. Full luster present, but may be noticeable marred by scuff marks or bag abrasions
• MS 63 – Choice Uncirculated, No trace wear, full mint luster, few noticeable surface marks
• MS 64 – Uncirculated, A few scattered contact marks. Good eye appeal and attractive luster
• MS 65 – Gem Uncirculated, Only light, scattered contact marks that are not distracting. Strong luster, good eye appeal
• PF 63 – Choice Proof, Reflective surfaces with only a few blemishes in secondary focal places. No major flaws
Sounds complicated but it’s not. Your coins will typically fall somewhere between the top 3 categories if circulated. If you have a coin that you feel meets the criteria of the last 4 grades, you may want to consider a grading agency.

Most US coins will have similar grade descriptions, separate and distinct for that coin. To attempt grading your coins, I’d suggest purchasing the following book. A Guide Book of Red Book US Coins 2023 (Official Red Book). They are sold for around $14.00 on Amazon. This book will provide information on all US coins from the 1600’s to date. It also will provide data on Commemorative Coins, Bullion and Tokens.

General Information
• Dollar Coins (with the exception of Bullion .999 Silver) were no longer minted with 90% Silver after 1935, (staring with the Eisenhower Dollar)
• Dimes, quarters and half-dollars were silver through 1964
• Very rare, very old coins are valuable even if they are barely identifiable. Know what you have.
Some of the more Collectable modern day coins to look for (double die means coin struck twice)
• Penny 1909S V.D.B, 1914D, 1922 (no D), 1931S, 1955 Double Die Obverse
• Nickle 1916 Double Die Obverse, 1918D-8/7
• Dimes 1916D, 1921, 1921D
• Quarters 1932D, 1932S, 1942D Double Die, 1943 Double Die, 1943S Double Die
• Half Dollars 1921, 1921D, 1938D,
• Dollars (all CC mint marks), 1889CC, 1893S, 1894

What you need to get started
I have attached a photo of the items you might want to purchase if you have coins you wish to value. They are as follows:
• Red Book or other. This book will tell you everything you need to know about US coins
• Magnifying glass of jewelers loupe do investigate the wear to your rare coins if found
• Gram scale to weigh the previous metal content of your coin (not a must for beginners)
• 18KT Gold testing acid and stone (not a must for beginners). In your search, you will see test kit solutions sold for testing silver. These work but are harder to validate in my opinion. Professionals tend to use 18KT gold solution as it’s easy to read and can also be used to test 18KT gold. I have shown a picture of a Silver Dollar and Dime scratched on the stone with acid added. Note the scratch for the Silver Dollar stains silver while the non-silver coin scratch just dissolves. That’s how you know if the item is silver or not. This also works for gold. 18KT gold will stain gold, 14KT Gold will dissolve (not stain) since it doesn’t meet the 18KT standard (side note – when testing gold you buy an acid meant for each gold increment - 8KT, 10KT, 14KT etc. to determine your gold content).

Non-US Coins – coins of the world (sometimes made of previous metal)
When investigating Coins that are not US made, I would suggest the following website (this website will have US coins as well). Once on the website you select Coins, then enter the country where you believe the coin was made (An example would be if the coin has the word Reichsmark, that would suggest the coin is likely German) and the denomination (1 for 1 cent). Hit search and you will see all the detail for German coins (size, wording, composition etc.). This site will provide details on the coin but no value (Website is https://en.numista.com/ or search the word Numista).

In Summary
• My goal with this article is to give you the tools to access if your coins have significant value or not. This basic information is just that basic. To become a true coin collector there are many layers of additional knowledge that you would need to attain. It’s not that hard to learn but I don’t want to give the impression that this basic information will make you a skilled collector.
• Get a coin book and understand what your coin is. Small nuances in the coin design can be the difference between a common and rare coin.
• When handling bullion (.999 Fine Silver Coins like the Silver Eagle shown), I use white cloth gloves. This insures that you don’t leave skin acid on the coin surface. There are opposing points of view on this practice but I usually do it for safety sake (not necessary for beginners unless you have uncirculated bullion).
• When calculating the melt value of silver and gold coins, know you would likely receive about 50% of that value if sold for melt.
• Identify your coin and nuances, attempt to grade your coin and search for your coin on eBay or other sites using the description, date and grade to see what like coins have sold for. Search sold listings and don’t pay attention to what people are asking for their coins (some values are unrealistic).
• If you have coins made of precious metal that have little to no collectable value, weigh them and use the silver calculator to determine value. Know you can get about 50% of that value if you melt them.

If you need help identifying a coin or understanding your coins value, reach out to me and I’ll be glad to assist. I can also assist with paper currency.

Introduction to Hummel’s (Goebel Hummel / M.I. Hummel)So you’re asking why I am writing about Hummel’s today. There is a...
11/14/2022

Introduction to Hummel’s (Goebel Hummel / M.I. Hummel)

So you’re asking why I am writing about Hummel’s today. There is a simple answer; I get asked more questions about this category than any other. The question usually goes like this. A relative left me their Hummel Collection and I’m trying to decide if they are worth anything. Since some of you will likely cross paths with this collectable figurine in the future (if you haven’t already), I thought I would share some details on how to identify each figurine, how to date them and how to determine value.

Cautionary note: I am not suggesting that people start collecting Hummel’s. Unfortunately they have declined significantly in value over time and will likely continue to do so. I’m simply trying to answer the question, which ones are valuable and how do you identify what you have.

Brief History of Hummel’s – the origin of these figurines can be traced back to Berta Hummel (later known as Sister Maria Innocentia), born May 21, 1909 in lower Bavaria, near Munich Germany. Following attendance at the Girls Finishing School, she moved to Munich where she attended the Academy of Fine and Applied Arts. In 1934 she entered the Convent of Siessen where she took her first vows and began splitting her time between art and devotion. While at the convent she created paintings and drawings that would eventually make her famous. During WWII, she fell into poor health and died at the age of 37. Goebel, a separate company founded in 1871 started making a line of figurines after 1910. Around 1933, Franz Goebel sought and gained permission to translate the drawings of Sister Maria Innocentia into three-dimensional figurines. The permission was granted with the understanding that designs must be approved by Sister Innocentia and the convent before manufacture. After her death, the convent continued to have final say as to whether a proposed design stays within the M.I. Hummel standards. The first figurines were introduced in 1935 and Goebel Hummel production of new figurines continued until 2008.

Trademarks and Dating – there were numerous trademarks and variations used on these figurines with each trademark simply replacing the previous one (with some overlap). Below I have listed the trademarks and associated dates of use. To get a better visual representation of these trademarks, I’d suggest a website like the one attached below if you don’t have a Hummel book (https://www.antiquetrader.com/collectibles/hummel-trademarks-identified).

Trademarks
• The Crown Mark (1934-1950) – known as TMK-1. Variations are Incised Crown, Stamped Crown and Wide Ducal Crown
• The Full Bee (1940–1959) – known as TMK-2. Variations are Incised Full Bee, Stamped Full Bee, The High Bee, Small Bee, Baby Bee and Vee Bee
• The Stylized Bee (1958-1972) – known as TMK-3. Variations are Large Stylized Bee with W. Germany, Small Stylized Bee with W. Germany
• The Three Line Mark (1964-1972) – known as TMK-4. Stylized Bee with three lines of print
• The Last Bee Mark (1972-1979) – known as TMK-5. Stylized Bee over Goebel over W. Germany
• The Missing Bee Mark (1979-1991) – known as TMK-6. Goebel over W, Germany with no Bee
• The Hummel Mark (1991-1999) – known as TMK-7. Goebel over Germany (removed the W from W. Germany) over a Crown Hummel Mark
• The Millennium Bee Mark (2000-present) – known as TMK-8. A Bee over Goebel

Reading the Marks – most Hummel’s will possess a series of marks on the bottom base of the figurine. These marks will allow you to identify the name of the figurine, size and date range. From there you can start to identify value. Typically the bottom marks are as follows.
• Stamped or incised mark as outlined above (Crown Mark, Full Bee etc.).
• Hummel Number – number that correlates to a named figurine (example 51 which identifies the figurine as Village Boy).
• Behind the number, a / (back slash) followed by numbers or letters. This identifies size and sometimes variation. An example of a variation would be is the figurine facing left or right.

Here is an example – Crown Mark with 51/3/0. This mark tells you the Hummel’s name is Village Boy (51). The /3/0 tells you it’s the 4” version of the figurine. The Crown tells you it’s TMK-1. To complicate things, in this figurine if you have an example with a blue jacket and yellow kerchief instead of the normal green jacket and red kerchief, the value increases 4 fold. Knowing what you have matters.

Determining Value – there are a couple of ways to determine value. In addition, the valuation can be affected by a number condition factors, some of which I will attempt to call out.
Let’s start with identification of what you have.
• One option is to purchase a Hummel Identification and Price Guide. This guide would give you all the information you would ever need to help identify what your figurine is. Unfortunately, because values have declined significantly over time, older publications will give you inflated values. I use an addition published in 2003 so values are of no use except to identify the relative difference in value between say a Village Boy TMK-1 and a TMK-8. Same figurine but the TMK-1 is about three times as valuable (in 2003) as the TMK-8.
• Another Option for those just starting out – look at the bottom of the figurine and gather the numbers shown. In this example the numbers are 51/3/0. Go to eBay and in the search bar type Hummel 51/3/0. Look at the items that are displayed and find an example that looks like yours. In this case it’s Village Boy. Now simply do another search on eBay, this time with a more refined search name of Hummel Village Boy 51/3/0, TMK1 or whatever trademark you have on the bottom of your example. Once the listings appear, search on Sold / Completed listings to see what like items have sold for. Pay less attention to what people are asking for their items and focus on what they are actually selling for. That will give you a true, estimated value.

Condition / Appearance / Variables
• Positive attributes – original box and in good condition, undamaged, clean like new appearance, variations like the one listed above (blue jacket, yellow kerchief).
• Negative attributes – damaged, chipped, repaired, missing paint / paint wear, crazing and uneven crazing (shown in one of the pictures).

Why Have Hummel’s Lost Value
• Simply stated, supply and demand. Let’s use eBay as an example. Supply - Currently when you search the word Hummel on eBay you get 52,000 + results (even eBay doesn’t take the time to count them all).
• Demand – tell a young adult you have inherited a Hummel collection and ask them how many they would like for display in their home. More often than not the answer would be zero. Simply said, Hummel’s (in general) are not an item of interest for the younger generation. That’s why there are so many for sale and that drives the value down.

My Opinion on Collectable Hummel’s after selling them for 15 years. (In each of these statements below there are exceptions so take the time to research what you have).
• In general, once you get to The Three Line Mark and beyond, valuations really decline
• If you are at a yard sale and see Hummel’s with TMK’s 1 or 2 for $2 or $3 each and they are in good condition, I’d consider taking a chance and buy them. Remember; most times sellers don’t know what they have. The scenario I have spelled out above is not a farfetched as you might expect.

In Summary, what to do if you have Hummel’s or see Hummel’s for sale and want to establish value
• Identify what you have (Hummel name, size and trademark).
• Search eBay (or other online sources) to see what like items are selling for.
• If you buy it or inherit Hummel’s determine how you intend to sell them. There is a big difference between what an item is worth and what you might get for it selling it to a reseller.
• Last comment – many people think antiques appreciate with age. In many cases that’s true with the exception of when supply exceeds demand or the item is no longer desirable. In general, I would not expect Hummel’s to increase in value over time. This would not be a category that I would hold on to with the hopes of increasing value over time.

Reference Material – Luckey’s 12th addition Hummel Figurines & Plates Identification and Price

Pictures & Comments
• Pic 1 - This group of Hummel’s have a retail value of over $1,000. They range from $400.00 to $18.00. Take time to instigate what you have.
• Pic 2 – Picture of an incised Crown Mark TMK-1
• Pic 3 - Duet Hummel TMK-1, variation front lip on base
• Pic 4 – TMK-2 Stamped Full Bee
• Pic 5 – TMK-2 Incised Full Bee
• Pic 6 – Latest News Hummel, variation Munchener on newspaper page
• Pic 7 – TMK-2 Transition mark
• Pic 8 – Example of uneven crazing

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