Kindred Crops

Kindred Crops Contact information, map and directions, contact form, opening hours, services, ratings, photos, videos and announcements from Kindred Crops, Florist, 777 Sagebrush Drive, Las Vegas, NV.

05/23/2026

Propagating philodendron and pothos the right way: cut below the node, use water or perlite for faster, healthier roots, and pot up at 2–3″ with branching. This video shows node ID, cutting placement, and a perlite cup method that beats mushy stems. Grab my Indoor Plant Guide for step-by-step propagation for 20 plants with checklists, timing cues, and pot-up milestones.�

05/23/2026

Monstera propagation made simple: identify the node, cut just below, root in water, perlite, or moss, and pot up at 2–3″ with branching into an airy mix. This walk-through covers node ID, clean cuts, wet-stick vs leafed cuttings, and fast-drain potting so you avoid mush and stalled growth. Grab my Indoor Plant Guide for step-by-step propagation on 20 plants with checklists, timing cues, and pot-up milestones.

05/23/2026

Avocado bonsai root-over-rock update (Part 3). Today I removed the mesh and started hardening the exposed roots—slow, controlled, top-down. If you’re training a bonsai avocado tree or doing a root-over-rock bonsai, here’s exactly what I did: Steps

05/22/2026

Root-bound Jade plant (Crassula ovata)? Here’s a fast repotting tutorial that prevents shock and kick-starts growth. This big Jade is drying too fast and water rushes through—classic root-bound succulent. We’ll refresh the mix, keep the same pot or go just +1 size, and reset the watering rhythm. Steps:

05/22/2026

Most people build moss poles for their plants… but I wanted something bigger. Instead of a pole, I built a moss wall—a living backdrop that grows, spreads, and transforms over time. 🌿 Poles are fine for a couple vines, but they top out fast. A wall changes everything. It’s sturdy, wide, and gives multiple plants space to root, climb, and weave into one another until the frame itself feels alive. I started with a mix of sphagnum moss, orchid bark, and perlite—moisture, structure, and airflow all working together to keep roots healthy. Then I planted humidity-loving vines like pothos, philodendrons, and tradescantia. Over time, they’ll thicken, overlap, and turn this into a full indoor jungle wall. Right now it’s just the beginning—bare stems, fresh moss, and a little vision. But week by week, it grows denser, greener, and closer to the lush wall I imagined. The real payoff is watching it evolve. This project was big, messy, and absolutely worth https://www.tiktok.com//video/7552512886803942687

05/22/2026

Most people believe moss poles are the perfect solution for climbing plants… but after using them, I’ve learned they’re not everything they’re hyped up to be. Here’s what I found: – They’re often too short. Plants outgrow them fast, and stacking extensions just makes them unstable. – They’re hard to keep moist. Dry moss doesn’t help roots attach, but misting every day is a chore. – And honestly, they’re not designed to handle heavy growth long-term. They work for a season, but eventually they wobble, break down, or leave you with a plant that wants more support than the pole can give. Moss poles can be useful, sure—but they’re not a forever fix. That’s why I started experimenting with sturdier, more practical options for real growth. What’s your experience? Do you swear by moss poles, or have they let you down too? Drop your take in the comments.

05/21/2026

You asked, I answered 🌿 This moss wall Q&A covers the biggest questions I’ve seen so far: – Does a moss wall cause mold? – How do you actually water a vertical wall? – Will the mesh or wire rust over time? – And what about fungus gnats—do they become a problem? The short version: airflow prevents mold, a wick + top watering keeps moisture balanced, coated mesh avoids rust, and gnats haven’t been an issue at all. A moss wall is like building a living ecosystem indoors, and when it’s set up right, it’s practical and beautiful. Drop your next question in the comments—I’ll feature it in the next Q&A!

05/21/2026

Most Monsteras aren’t slow—they’re stalled. In this video I show the three fixes that restart growth: use a snug pot (only 1–2″ wider than the root ball) for predictable dry-down, stop rotating so one leader can mature toward a single light source, and give real support so the plant climbs and produces larger, split leaves. I also show how to prune a few shaded base leaves and put aerial roots to work for stronger uptake. Save this for repot day and tell me which change you’re making first.

05/21/2026

Replying to Moss Wall Update - Watering Edition

05/21/2026

Monstera not growing or sizing up? Here are 3 evidence-based fixes to boost Monstera deliciosa care and get bigger, fenestrated leaves fast: 1) Hydrophobic mix—when soil goes bone-dry it repels water and the core stays dry; bottom-soak 20–30 min and water slowly to rehydrate evenly. 2) Warm nights—leaf size is enzyme-driven; keep 65–75°F (18–24°C) overnight so new leaves don’t emerge small. 3) Skip the drainage layer—rocks/LECA at the bottom raise the perched water table and keep roots wetter; instead use a chunky, aerated mix (bark + pumice/perlite) throughout. Save this for repot day—and tell me which myth you’re dropping first: drainage layers or rotation?

05/20/2026

Most people think droopy leaves mean watering issues—but the truth is, your roots might be suffocating. When a plant becomes root bound, it stops absorbing water and nutrients, even when you’re doing everything right. This happens to Monsteras, Fiddle Leaf Figs, Rubber Trees, Peace Lilies, Lilacs, and Japanese Maples. Loosen the roots, repot with fresh soil, and you’ll see new growth take off again. �

Address

777 Sagebrush Drive
Las Vegas, NV

Website

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Kindred Crops posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Shortcuts

Share

Category