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Tớ nhặt riêng ra 1 ablum cho dễ theo dõi. Những mẫu áo choàng vô cùng ấm áp và dễ thương cho bé gái và bé trai

20/09/2016

From back to front:
streamlined decrease, standard decrease, wale deflection decrease, double decrease, bias decrease.

When I get a moment, I’m going to collate all of the information in this post into a printable PDF, but until then please have patience and of course feel free to point out glaring technical errors.

Apologies for the lurid greenness my samples, it was what was on hand. [I think the Hulk would be proud of me, though]. All of the samples in the photo above were knit on a standard [4.5mm needle spacing] gauge knitting machine for speed, but could be just as easily knit by hand. The yarn was cheapo 4 ply cotton.

The other thing I should mention is that I used a 6-point transfer tool for all of the samples. Experiment with the number of points/stitches for different effects.
All of the samples were knit to emulate the standard ‘decrease 1 st every alternate row’ raglan formula. This is reflected in the written instructions.

The first two decreases are very well known and serve more as something to compare the later decreases to than anything else.

The Streamlined Decrease
I call this a streamlined decrease simply because of the sharp, clean line created by stitches cutting across stitches. Hand knitters will be very, very familiar with this type of decrease, it being used in 90% of commercially available patterns. An extra step, although not a very difficult one, is required for machine knitters to achieve the same effect.

By Machine:
*Counting from edge of work towards centre of bed, using a single-point transfer tool place the 7th st onto the 6th needle.
Transfer all stitches towards centre to fill space left by empty needle.
Return newly empty needle at edge to non-working position.
Knit 2 rows.*
Repeat from *to*

By Hand:
[At beginning of row, leaning towards left]
*Knit 5, ssk, work to end.
Work one row straight*
Repeat from *to*

[At end of row, leaning towards right]
*Work to last 7 sts, K2tog, k5.
Work one row straight*
Repeat from*to*

The Standard Decrease
This decrease is very similar to the previous example, but slightly less graphic.

By Machine:
*Using a 6-point transfer tool, move edge 6 sts in by 1 needle.
Return empty needle to non-working position.
Knit 2 rows.*
Repeat from *to*

By Hand:
[At beginning of row, leaning towards left]
*Knit 5, K2tog, work across row.
Work one row straight.*
Repeat from *to*

[At end of row, leaning towards right]
*Work to last 7 sts, ssk, k5.
Work one row straight.*
Repeat from*to*

The Wale Deflection Decrease
As you can see in the sample, the edge stitches are deflected by the decrease [hence the name] and bounce off at an angle. This type of fashioning looks good in finer yarns and shows up best worked several stitches away from the edge [my default number is six regardless of gauge].

My Italian colleagues call this decrease “one at the edge and one on the inside”, which is an odd way of explaining that two different decreases are used on alternate shaping rows – once at the edge and then once several stitches inside the edge.

By Machine:
*Using a 6-point transfer tool, move edge 6 sts in by 1 needle.
Return empty needle to non-working position.
Knit 2 rows [or as many rows as your pattern dictates].
Using a single point transfer tool, move edge st onto adjacent needle.
Knit 2 rows [or as many rows as your pattern dictates].*
Repeat from *to*

By Hand:
[At beginning of row, leaning towards left]
*Knit 5, K2tog, work across row.
Work one row straight.
Ssk, work across row.
Work one row straight.*
Repeat from*to*

[At end of row, leaning towards right]
*Work to last 7 sts, ssk, K5.
Work one row straight.
Work to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Work one row straight.*
Repeat from*to*

The Double Decrease
This is the same classic fully-fashioned decrease often seen on commercially produced knits. In industrial production, sweater manufacturers use this particular method for a very simple reason - to save time [time is money!]. By decreasing two [or more] stitches at a time, they can knit twice [or more] the amount of plain rows before having to stop again. As a by-product, they also get a more pronounced effect to their shaping. Compare the double decrease with the standard decrease and you’ll see what I mean. When working with heavier yarns, you might want to reduce the number of plain stitches worked before and after the decrease for a more graceful look.

To work this decrease by hand, a cable needle is necessary, it functions as a temporary third needle allowing you knit pairs of non-adjacent stitches together.

By Machine:
*Using a 6-point transfer tool, move edge 6 sts towards centre by 2 needles.
Return both empty needles to non-working position.
Knit 4 rows [this allows for a decrease rate of 1 st every 2 rows]*
Repeat from *to*

By Hand:
Back Double Decrease [at beginning of row, leaning towards left]:
**Knit 4, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold parallel to and behind left needle. *Insert right needle into first st on left needle and at the same time into first st on cable needle, knit these 2 sts tog; rep from * once more - 2 sts decreased. Work 3 rows straight.**
Repeat from**to**

Front Double Decrease [at end of row, leaning towards right]:
**Knit to last 8 sts, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold cable needle parallel to and in front of the left needle.
*Insert right needle into first st on cable needle and at same time into first st on left needle, knit these 2 sts tog; rep from* once more - 2 sts decreased.
Knit remaining 4 sts on left needle.
Work 3 rows straight.**
Repeat from **to**

The Bias Decrease
The bias decrease is a simple variation on the double decrease. Adding an increase at the beginning and end of the row causes the decreases to move across the fabric, pulling the edge stitches into a bias slant. Added to this, increasing into the first/last stitch has a cancelling out effect on the double decrease, reducing it to a single decrease. It obviously follows that to maintain the standard raglan formula, the decrease has to be repeated every two rows and not every four rows as in the previous example. This decrease looks especially good on raglans, creating a chevron effect where the bias stitches meet at the seamline. It’s commonly found on classic fine-gauge knitwear along shoulder seams and sleeve caps.

The handknit instructions are particularly wordy, but please don’t be put off. All you are doing is increasing one stitch to bring the double decrease back to a single decrease. Try it, it sounds much harder than it is.

Incidentally the term of reference my Italian colleagues use for this is “increase one, decrease two”. I think it sums up this little manoeuvre extremely well.


By Machine:
*Using a 6-point transfer tool, move edge 6 sts towards centre by 2 needles.
There are now two empty needles in working position at the edge.
Make stitch by picking up heel of edge st and placing onto adjacent empty needle. Return remaining empty needle to non-working position. [1 st decreased]
Knit 2 rows.*
Repeat from *to*

By Hand:
Bias Back Decrease: [at beginning of row, leaning towards left]
**Inc 1 into first st, knit 3, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold parallel to and behind left needle.
*Insert right needle into first st on left needle and at same time, into first st on cable needle, knit these 2 sts tog; rep from * once more. [total of 1 st decreased during shaping]
Work 1 row straight.**
Repeat from **to**

Bias Front Decrease: [at end of row, leaning towards right]
**Knit to last 8 sts, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold cable needle parallel to and in front of the left needle.
*Insert right needle into first st on cable needle and at same time into first st on left needle, knit these 2 sts tog; rep from* once more. Knit 3, inc 1 into last st on left needle. [total of 1 st decreased during shaping]
Work 1 row straight.**
Repeat from **to**

19/09/2016

Tận dụng vải thừa để trang trí, sắp xếp chỗ may vá đẹp hơn ạ

19/09/2016

19/09/2016

19/09/2016

Frog Hat Pattern:

Size: 0-3 months
Magic Ring, chain 1, 9 HDC in ring, join, chain 1
Round 2: Work 2 HDC into each st around, join, chain 1 (18 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (27 HDC)
Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 HDC)
Round 5: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Round 6 -14: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Do not fasten off, continue on earflaps as written below

Size: 3-6 months
Magic Ring, chain 1, 9 HDC in ring, join, chain 1
Round 2: Work 2 HDC into each st around, join, chain 1 (18 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (27 HDC)
Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 HDC)
Round 5: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Round 6: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 8, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (50 HDC)
Round 7 -15: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (50 HDC)

Do not fasten off, continue on earflaps as written below
Size: 6-12 months
Magic Ring, chain 1, 9 HDC in ring, join, chain 1
Round 2: Work 2 HDC into each st around, join, chain 1 (18 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (27 HDC)
Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 HDC)
Round 5: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Round 6: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 4, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC)
Round 7 -16: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC)
Do not fasten off, continue on earflaps as written below
Size: Toddler/Preschooler
Magic Ring, chain 1, 9 HDC in ring, join, chain 1
Round 2: Work 2 HDC into each st around, join, chain 1 (18 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (27 HDC)
Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 HDC)
Round 5: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Round 6: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 4, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC)
Round 7: HDC around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC
Round 8: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 8, Repeat around (60 HDC)
Round 9 -18: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (60 HDC)
Do not fasten off, continue on earflaps as written below
Size: Child
Magic Ring, chain 1, 9 HDC in ring, join, chain 1
Round 2: Work 2 HDC into each st around, join, chain 1 (18 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (27 HDC)
Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 HDC)
Round 5: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Round 6: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 4, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC)
Round 7: HDC around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC
Round 8: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 8, Repeat around (60 HDC)
Round 9: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 29, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (62 HDC)
Round 10 -20: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (62 HDC)
Do not fasten off, continue on earflaps as written below
Size: Adult
Magic Ring, chain 1, 9 HDC in ring, join, chain 1
Round 2: Work 2 HDC into each st around, join, chain 1 (18 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (27 HDC)
Round 4: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (36 HDC)
Round 5: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (45 HDC)
Round 6: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 4, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC)
Round 7: HDC around, join, chain 1 (54 HDC
Round 8: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 8, Repeat around (60 HDC)
Round 9: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 9, Repeat around, join, chain 1 (66 HDC)
Round 10 -21: HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (66 HDC)
Do not fasten off, continue on earflaps as written below
Earflaps for 0-3 months – Preschooler
Earflap 1:
Chain 1, SC in next 10, chain 1, turn
Row 2: SC decrease, SC in next 6, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 3: SC across (8 SC)
Row 4: SC decrease, SC in next 4, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 5: SC across ( 6 SC)
Row 6: SC decrease, SC in next 2, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 7: SC across (4 SC)
Row 8: Make 2 SC decreases, chain 1, turn
Row 9: SC decrease, fasten off, weave in ends

Second earflap placement: Fold hat in half leaving slightly more stitches in the front of the hat than the back. Place the second earflap to line up with the first earflap (Refer to earflap placement from the pictures available at the end of my puppy hat pattern).

Earflap 2:
Join yarn, chain 1, SC in next 10, chain 1, turn
Row 2: SC decrease, SC in next 6, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 3: SC across (8 SC)
Row 4: SC decrease, SC in next 4, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 5: SC across ( 6 SC)
Row 6: SC decrease, SC in next 2, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 7: SC across (4 SC)
Row 8: Make 2 SC decreases, chain 1, turn
Row 9: SC decrease, and continue to SC around hat and earflaps, when you get to the top of each earflap: chain 40 (or as long/short as you wish), slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook and the rest of the way down the chain. Continue to SC around the hat and fasten off when you get the entire way around.

Earflaps for Child – Adult:
Earflap 1:
Chain 1, SC in next 12, chain 1, turn
Row 2: SC decrease, SC in next 8, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 3: SC across (10 SC)
Row 4: SC decrease, SC in next 6, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 5: SC across (8 SC)
Row 6: SC decrease, SC in next 4, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 7: SC across ( 6 SC)
Row 8: SC decrease, SC in next 2, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 9: SC across (4 SC)
Row 10: Make 2 SC decreases, chain 1, turn
Row 11: SC decrease, fasten off, weave in ends

Second earflap placement: Fold hat in half leaving slightly more stitches in the front of the hat than the back. Place the second earflap to line up with the first earflap (Refer to earflap placement from the pictures available at the end of my puppy hat pattern).

Earflap 2:
Join yarn, chain 1, SC in next 12, chain 1, turn
Row 2: SC decrease, SC in next 8, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 3: SC across (10 SC)
Row 4: SC decrease, SC in next 6, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 5: SC across (8 SC)
Row 6: SC decrease, SC in next 4, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 7: SC across ( 6 SC)
Row 8: SC decrease, SC in next 2, SC decrease, chain 1, turn
Row 9: SC across (4 SC)
Row 10: Make 2 SC decreases, chain 1, turn
Row 11: SC decrease, and continue to SC around hat and earflaps, when you get to the top of each earflap: chain 40 (or as long/short as you wish), slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook and the rest of the way down the chain. Continue to SC around the hat and fasten off when you get the entire way around.

Frog Eye Pattern (back of eye): MAKE 2

Only using green yarn…
Magic Ring, chain 1 and make 8 HDC in ring, join to first HDC, chain 1 (8 HDC)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (16 HDC)
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, repeat around (24 HDC)
Fasten off leaving long tail to sew front and back of eye together

Frog Eye Pattern (front of eye): MAKE 2

Staring with white yarn…
Magic Ring, chain 1 and make 8 HDC in ring, join to first HDC, chain 1 (8 HDC)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each stitch around, join, chain 1 (16 HDC)
change to green yarn..
Round 3: 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, repeat around (24 HDC)
Fasten off and weave in ends

First, sew button onto front eyes. If you don’t feel comfortable using buttons, you can crochet a small circle (magic ring, chain 1 and make 6 SC in ring, join and pull tight). OR you can start your front eye with black yarn instead of white for the magic ring round. OR you could use a safety eye.
Take your tapestry needle and long tail… sew the two eyes together by weaving your needle under the top of the last crochet stitches made as in this photo:

Now lay your hat flat and sew the eyes onto the crease of the hat right on either side of your first round. The more of the eye that you sew down, the sturdier it will be.

Frog cheeks:
With pink or red yarn…
Magic Ring, chain 1, make 10 HDC inside of ring, join to first HDC, fasten off leaving tail to sew onto hat.

Note: The cheeks and smile are virtually the same as in my gingerbread hat. I have included a video of how to sew on the mouth and cheeks in my Gingerbread Man Hat Pattern Post!