ShopTansy

ShopTansy Bring nature home 🌿 Los Angeles, CA
Plants, gifts, home goods, events, & more! Stop by today or visit us online to check out our collection of unique products!
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We are your artistically extraordinary plant boutique and home goods store in Burbank, California. We offer a variety of indoor/outdoor plants, unique décor, natural crafts and art, accessories, and more. Whether you are looking for wall art, indoor plants, housewares, table décor, planters, baskets, pillows, or candleholders, we’ve got them. We also offer Private Shopping, Plant Consulting, Works

hops, Custom Arrangements, and Garden-To-Go kits so you can create on your own! We offer local delivery, curbside pickup and shipping nationwide.

08/10/2026

Hi friends! I’ll be hosting an orchid care masterclass August 29th at Tansy! If you want to learn everything about orchids, master two new orchid crafts to take home, and enjoy a live Q&A, this one is for you! Hit the link in our bio or head to https://linktr.ee/shoptansyla to reserve your spot ✨

Discover the art of growing healthy, thriving orchids in this immersive workshop led by the orchid expert behind Tansy.
Whether you’re a complete beginner or already have orchids at home, this class is designedto give you the confidence and knowledge to help your plants flourish. Learn the techniques used by an experienced grower, ask questions throughout the workshop, learn a new craft and leave with practical skills you can start using right away.
During the workshop, you’ll learn:
• How to properly care for orchids year-round.
• The secrets to encouraging healthy roots and repeat blooms.
• Watering, fertilizing, lighting, and repotting techniques.
• The differences between growing orchids inbark, sphagnum moss, and water… and when each method works best.
• How to identify and avoid common orchid care mistakes.
• Tips and techniques used by a professional orchid grower.
The workshop also includes a live Q&A, giving you the opportunity to get expert answers to your orchid care questions.
To make the experience even more interactive, you’ll complete two orchid-inspired take-home projects designed to help you practice the skills you’ve learned and continue building your confidence at home.
If you’ve ever wanted to master orchid care, this is your chance to learn from an experienced orchid specialist in a fun, welcoming, andhands-on setting.
Space is limited! Reserve your spot and experience Tansy’s most in-depth orchid workshops yet!

08/08/2026

Leave me your plant questions below 👇

08/07/2026

There’s lots of Hoya myths going around so let’s clear some things up!

🌱Ultimate Hoya Care Guide:

🌞Light

Hoyas require very high light levels to thrive and bloom! Place your Hoya directly in front of an East-facing window for several hours of direct morning sun, or in a South or West facing window. Outdoor all day shade in warmer climates is also great! If growing under lights, position intense full-spectrum LED grow lights very close to the canopy for 12 to 16 hours daily.

💦 Water

Bottom Water only when the soil has dried fully and the pot feels as light as cardboard (generally about 1-2x a month). The thick leaves and stems store water, making Hoyas extremely drought-tolerant and highly susceptible to root rot! Always bottom water Hoyas. Reduce watering significantly during late fall and winter when growth slows down!

☁️ Humidity

While most common Hoyas can tolerate ambient household humidity, they’ll explode with growth when kept in 70%+ humidity. Thin leafed Hoyas are especially prone to leaf drop in low moisture. Maintain continuous air circulation with a small fan to prevent stagnant air from causing fungal spots or rot.

🌡️ Temperature

Hoyas thrive in warm temps (60F+) Always keep them away from vents or drafty areas.

🪴 Repotting

Hoyas are predominantly epiphytic and require a chunky, soil mix for maximum aeration around the roots. Use a mix of roughly equal parts coarse fir bark chunks, chunky perlite/ pumice, and soil. Repot only when the substrate breaks down, gets hydrophobic, or once the roots begin to grow out of the pot, usually every two to three years. When repotting, only upsize by 1” or just refresh the substrate and return the plant to the same pot.

🍴Fertilizer

Feed using a balanced orchid fertilizer diluted half strength once a month during growing season. Orchid formulas are great because Hoyas intake nutrients similarly to epiphytic orchids! Rinse the pot thoroughly with water once a month to wash away mineral buildup.

08/06/2026

ULTIMATE ALOE CARE GUIDE

🌞 Light
Aloes need about four hours of direct sun daily. Put them by a west or south facing window if indoors, or place them outside where they get morning sun with afternoon shade. All day outdoor shade works great as well!

💦 Water
Let the soil dry out COMPLETELY, then soak it thoroughly until water runs out the drainage hole! Water every few weeks during warm months and reduce to once a month max during winter!

☁️ Humidity & Temp
Normal household humidity works great because aloe actually prefer dry air! Keep the room between 55 and 80 degrees and protect them from chilly drafts or AC vents.

🧪 Feeding
Feed lightly once in spring and once in midsummer with a succulent fertilizer diluted to half strength. Skip feeding completely fall - winter!

🪴 Potting & Propagation
Pot in a pot with lots of good drainage like a terracotta pot that has a wide drainage hole at the bottom. When the plant gets crowded, twist off the little baby pups growing around the base and put them in their own small pots once they are 1/3-1/2 the size of the mother plant.

✂️ Pruning
Slice off dry, mushy, or discolored outer leaves right near the base with ckean scissors or a knife. Leave the firm inner leaves alone so the center can keep pushing out fresh growth!

🪴 DIY Soil Mix
Mix equal portions of potting soil, coarse sand, and pumice/perlite. This mix prevents water logging and lets the roots breathe easily!

⚠️ Common Issues
Thin or curling leaves mean it needs a good drink. Soft brown leaves mean the roots are drowning in too much water. Long skinny stems mean the plant is starving for direct light.

07/30/2026

Leave your plant questions below 🌱

07/28/2026

🪏Base Soil
The ideal, nutrient-balanced heavy base to anchor your custom DIY creations, high in organic matter and microbial life.
3 parts Premium organic compost or worm castings (rich in micro-nutrients and beneficial biology)
2 parts Aged pine bark fines or screened forest products (provides long-lasting organic structure)
2 parts Premium peat moss or buffered coco coir (acts as the primary moisture and nutrient sponge)
1 part Rice hulls or coarse perlite (adds immediate baseline aeration)
Use this as your heavy foundation ingredient when you need a nutrient-rich base, then cut it with extra bark, pumice, or sand depending on which specific plant family you are mixing for!

🌴 Tropical Houseplants (Monsteras, Philodendrons, Alocasias)
2 parts Premium organic potting soil or coco coir
1 part Chunky orchid bark (1/4 to 1/2 inch)
1 part Perlite or pumice
0.5 part Horticultural charcoal
Add a handful of worm castings for a natural nutrient boost!

🌵 Succulents & Cacti
2 parts Horticultural pumice or perlite
2 parts Expanded shale or coarse turface
1 part Low-nutrient organic cactus soil or coco coir
Top-dress with gravel or akadama to keep the root crown completely dry.

🌸 Epiphytic Orchids (Phalaenopsis, Cattleyas)
3 parts Premium A-grade New Zealand sphagnum moss
5 parts Premium Grade-A orchid bark (fir or pine)
1 part Medium-grade horticultural charcoal
Soak the bark overnight before repotting to help it retain moisture initially.

🪴 Carnivorous Plants (Venus Flytraps, Sarracenia, Drosera)
1 part Pure, unfertilized long-fiber sphagnum moss OR Canadian sphagnum peat moss
1 part Horticultural perlite OR coarse silica sand (strictly no chemical fertilizers or Miracle-Gro!)
Always hydrate this mix using only distilled water, reverse osmosis (RO) water, or rainwater.

🌿 Ferns (Boston Ferns, Maidenhair, Bird’s Nest)
2 parts Premium peat moss or coco coir
1 part Fine orchid bark or shredded tree fern fiber
1 part Perlite
1 part Worm castings
Keep this mix consistently damp! Never ever let it completely dry out!

07/26/2026

Share with your plant friends 🪴🫶

07/23/2026

Did you know Lucky Bamboo isn’t bamboo at all? In fact, it’s closer relative to a Snake Plant than an actual Bamboo…

☀️ LIGHT:
Bright indirect light. Morning direct sun indoors is fine as well, just avoid afternoon sun to prevent burning the leaves
🌡️ TEMP:
Keep between 65°F and 90°F. Avoid drafty areas and AC vents.
🪴 SOIL & pH:
These plants like slightly acidic pH (6.0–6.5) best! Use equal parts peat-free potting mix, perlite, and worm castings.
🔄 REPOTTING:
Repot every 1–2 years in spring or summer, sizing up only 1 inches (if at all) and make sure there’s functional drainage. If moving from water to soil, keep soil moist for the first 2 weeks while water roots adapt, then switch to watering only when dry!
💧 WATER (IN VASE):
Use distilled or rain water to avoid fluoride burn. Cover only the bottom 1–2 inches of roots with water to prevent stem rot. Replace water weekly!
🪴 WATER (IN SOIL):
Like all Dracaena, Lucky Bamboo likes to only be watered when dry.
💨 HUMIDITY:
This plant enjoys 50%+ humidity to prevent crispy leaf tips.
🍴FERTILIZER:
In water, use 1 drop of heavily diluted fertilizer (1/10th strength) every 3 months. In soil, use a half-strength fertilizer monthly during spring and summer.
⚠️ COMMON PROBLEMS:
Yellow stalks mean over-fertilization, tap water toxicity, or rot; remove soft yellow stalks completely since they cannot recover! Brown tips come from tap water chemicals or low humidity so switch to distilled water and snip dead ends. Mushy stems are rot from stagnant water or zero soil drying; trim dead roots and sanitize with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Pot again and let go fully dry in between waterings! If kept in water, clean vase weekly to prevent algae buildup.

Lucky Bamboo is not bamboo. It is Dracaena sanderiana, a tropical in the Asparagaceae family related to snake plants and dragon trees🪴

07/21/2026

If you’ve been struggling with your plants lately, there’s a chance you’re falling for a few common plant myths. Here are 10 watering tips that actually work
1. Stop watering on a schedule.
Water when the soil is dry, not just because it’s a specific day. Light changes, seasons change, and your plant’s water needs changes with it.
2. STOP relying on the finger test.
Your fingers only check the top inch or two, but roots live way deeper than that!
Topsoil lies
o A wet bottom half + dry
top half = root rot. Try lifting the pot to
feel its weight or try a moisture meter.
3. Aerate before you hydrate.
When soil gets really dry, it goes hydrophobic (meaning water repels instead of absorbs).. Take a chopstick, poke around to loosen the dirt, and then water.
4. Drench your plant’s!
When it is time to water, give it a full, thorough soak until it drains out the bottom or bottom water! Little sips only wet the top layer, ALL the roots need to drink!
5. Try bottom watering if you soil is hydrophobic or old.
If your soil is repelling water, set the pot in a bowl of water for 30 min to 1 hr. Let the plant drink from the bottom up until the topsoil feels damp.
6. Always dump the drip tray!!!! If you have self watering pots, always clean and dump the reservoir!!!!
Never leave your plant sitting in runoff water.
7. Watch out for ice-cold water and tap water.
Cold water can Shock your plant’s roots and cause yellowing leaves. Aim for room temperature water whenever you can. also, there are lots of plants that are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine and tapwater. Distilled water, RO water or rainwater is always best.
8. Adjust for pot materials.
Terracotta is porous so it breathes and dries out fast, while plastic and glazed ceramic trap moisture for way longer.
Make sure you don’t treat a plant in clay the same as a plant in plastic!
9. Match watering to light levels.
More light = faster growth = thirsty plant.
Low light = slow growth = soil stays wet.
If you move a plant to a dimmer spot, you need to cut back on watering.
10. Scale back in the winter.
Plants drink heavily during spring and summer (growing season), but slow down in fall and winter.

07/16/2026

How to repot your plant without killing it… 😉

If your plant has outgrown its home, it’s time to repot!
First, choose a new pot that is only 1-2” larger in width or depth than your old one. If you go too big, the extra soil holds onto too much water and overwatering becomes inevitable. Also, always Make sure the new pot has drainage holes at the bottom so excess water can drain!
Next, GENTLY wiggle your plant out of its current pot. If it is stuck, you can squeeze the sides of the plastic pot to loosen it up. Once it is out, use your fingers to gently loosen the outer roots so they know it is time to grow outward. Key word here is GENTLY! If any soil is stuck, you can try to rinse it off in the sink. If that doesn’t work, leave whatever soil is stuck… it’s better to have old soil than a stressed out plant. If your plant is too root bound and circling the bottom of a pot, make 3-4 vertical cuts along the roots to encourage outward growth.
Pre moisten your soil. Put some fresh potting mix into the bottom of the new pot. Sit your plant on top of that layer, then fill in the empty space around the sides with more soil. Tap the pot to help the soil settle.
Finally, give your plant a drink of water to help it adjust to its new space if you didn’t use pre moistened soil!

Address

2120 W Magnolia Boulevard
Burbank, CA
91506

Opening Hours

Monday 11am - 4pm
Tuesday 11am - 6pm
Wednesday 11am - 6pm
Thursday 11am - 6pm
Friday 11am - 6pm
Saturday 11am - 6pm
Sunday 11am - 6pm

Telephone

+18005800541

Website

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